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LEVINEREPORT
Industry Interview: Hotelier Isabel Bogadtke
Published: Feb 7, 2010
A recent visit to our old Brooklyn neighborhood offered NBN a vivid reminder that the restaurant business has changed as dramatically as the grocery world. Artisan rutabagas, mingled with locally grown onions, farmstead cheese and meats raised by celebrity ranchers

While we can’t be sure whether that locavore trattoria in our old hood is merely adding farmer’s market veggies to a condensed soup bought from food service giant Sysco the fact is that there’s a whole new world of opportunity for passionate food producers more interested in quality than profits.

With that in mind we spoke with Isabel Bogadtke who is with The Hotel Fauchere , a wonderful and very upscale Relais & Chateau hotel with two restaurants in Milford, Pennsylvania. Located eighty miles from Manhattan in the Delaware Water Gap, the less touristy town than down river New Hope has gained the moniker the “Un-Hamptons.”

Bogadtke’s decade of experience working in some of the finest food, wine and luxury hotel businesses in Europe and the U.S. made her the perfect choice for some questions about what’s different about food choices here and in the E.U. We were surprised by her answers.

NBN: Can you speak about the differences you see between the U.S. and Europe in regards to both the production and distribution of food, especially from smaller growers and processors?

IB: It is still hard to find food from small growers and processors. Basically you have to go to directly to the farm or an Oko-Shop (natural foods store). These have a great selection but are hard to find depending on your area. Further, a lot of their products are preserved not fresh.

On the other hand you will have a hard time finding those products in the restaurants. Restaurant on the country side seem to have a much easier time to offer local food verses city restaurants

NBN: It's my impression the in the EU smaller growers and regional processors are much more active and receive more support at all levels--government, retail, and consumers. Is that correct?

IB: The EU government does support the growers financial but there is not enough support regarding the ethic and quality, more focusing the quantity and productivity.

Looking at grocery stores in the U.S. versus E.U. I will have to disagree with the statement above. When I used to live in Texas I found that going to places like Whole Foods or Central Market the selection of foods from small growers and processors was much larger than I could possible imagine.

We certainly have regional products available in the E.U. but the local marketing and distribution is so small that it seems worse. The majority of products offered are imported from other European countries. Spain, Greece and Holland are some of the leaders.

Plus food prices in general are much higher so if local or regional products are available in quantity they are too expensive.

NBN: While working in the U.S are their any changes you have noticed in procuring high quality fresh products outside of the normal distribution (Sysco, US Food Service) chain?

IB: I believe that distributors like Sysco and US Food Service will have a hard time to keep up with the needs of chefs in the upper market. For the most part chefs are looking for more authentic products and quality. Especially at this time, chefs can not afford offering a product that has been mass produced. Guests are looking for the best value not just in their wallet but freshness and high quality of the food.

NBN: Any lessons that you would like to share from your own experiences in your home kitchen or professional capacity that people who love to entertain would find valuable.

IB: I believe that buying the products directly from the farmer will give you the chance to control yourself if you like what you see.
In addition to growing a variety of its own organic vegetables and herbs the hotel works with a variety of local growers and vendors to get the best possible foods.


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